Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Cutie Patootie

The Tourists
Rock art - the lion man

Robot Beetle

Almost the size of a hockey puck...

Windows of Hope after school program

Jill visiting the library during study. Normally the kids are in uniform.


March 27, 2008
It occurs to me that today may not the best day to write a blog post. I’m not sure if I can explain why the whole day went awry but I can say that the only one who can sympathize with me is Shania Twain - “There’s no way but up from here…”

You can judge but let me just say, Shania has her place. And it’s with the country folk. And some days you just need to hear about someone else’s dog that died, the guy that got away or the truck that just wouldn’t start. And now that your reading is tainted with the fact that I still listen to Shania Twain, let’s move on. Shall we?

I’m sure you’re all dying to know what happened on my Easter vacation. I only know you are because I’m dying to tell you. I left Khorixas on Thursday morning. I took my bag down to the hike point (where you catch a cab or otherwise obtain a ride) and had to wait about 10 minutes before someone told me a white man around the corner was taking a truck to Swakopmund. I was a little skeptical and it turns out the informant’s cover story of good will towards men was a ruse and he was looking for a free cooldrink. So after he showed me the man with the truck and said man with truck offered me a free ride to the coast, I paid for his cooldrink: N$7.00 worth of cooldrink! Fancy! The only catch was that the truck was a cattle truck filled with feed and the road from Khorixas to the coast is dirt. But that catch was quickly glazed over by the fact that I was getting a N$110 ride for free. I would deal with the fact that it was going to be a 9 hour-long free ride later. After a short scare that I would have to ride in the back with the feed (and about ten learners who were trying to get to their farms for the long weekend), I was offered a spot in the cab.

It was a great ride on a road I’ve never been on before. It was just the sort of thing I needed after so long in one place. The man who offered me the ride has lived in Khorixas since, I believe, 1980. He came to the city as an Agriculture officer in the government. While he’s lived here he built the Multisave, the petrol station, butchery and the rest camp in town (the one I’ve never been to). Along the ride he pointed out specific farms and dams that belong to important people or that had interesting stories. About an hour into the ride we stopped at a farm to pick up a man and his wife who were trying to sell firewood on the coast. Of course the stop took three times longer than expected. It was nice to be able to see the famous “farm” though. I can see why my learners love to get back to their farms. Most of the farms we passed had some fashion of standing water to swim in. There were a lot of windmills and cows and large green fields. It all looked ideal. I’m sure a lot of it seemed so pretty because we’re currently at the peak of greenery. But home is home and I’m sure they love it in the brown of the year too. While we were stopped, I was offered a cup of coffee and a little history lesson. I was told that Khorixas is called the heart of Damaraland because South Africa bought the city and the surrounding farms and gave them to the Damara. They did the same with Okakarara for the Hereros, Keetmanshoop for the Nama and different cities for all the other tribes. South Africa wanted to give each tribe a homeland. I didn’t quite catch the motivation behind giving land to certain tribes but, overall, the tone wasn’t cheery. I do recall that the South African presence in Namibia was likened to the United States’ current presence in the Middle East – a comparison made more than once with a similar un-cheery tone. Luckily, I could tell they didn’t hold US politics against me (and my unwillingness to discuss them) because I was given a second cup of coffee and a second lesson on Agriculture - Khorixas is named after the Khori bush… in case you were wondering.

It turns out that my free ride was only to Heinties Bay, which is about 50K north of Swakopmund. It’s a nice place from what I could tell but stopping there meant I had to find a taxi. I thanked my free ride and asked a petrol station attendant where the hike point was. He said to have a seat at the take-away and he would stay on the lookout for a taxi. After not eating since 6:30 and spending large amounts of time in a semi, the mushroom and chicken meat pie at the take-away was calling my name. I was one bite into it when a driver came over and said it was time to go now now. I realized that it was the first time I was in a taxi without another American. The language and culture barrier was almost too much to handle. But, we’ve decided that when you feel the most awkward is probably when you’re experiencing the culture the most and you’re one step closer to integrating. So I embraced four adults in the back seat while being the only one of them that spoke English. It cost N$40 for the taxi but, considering the circumstances, I think I got ripped off.

I made it to Swakopmund at 2 in the afternoon. We had started driving that morning at 9 (after all the expected errands around Khorixas that we’ve all come to know and love). Five hours seems like record time with all the stops and less than ideal means of transportation. When I arrived in Swakop I was in shock, awe and amazement. After touring the location to drop off the four other passengers in the taxi, I was taken to the town. When we rolled into town it was as though I was driving back to America. The streets were paved and busy. There were traffic lights, cafés, a lighthouse, and lots and lots of people.

The first day in Swakop was really chill. Seven out of the nine in Otjimbingwe for CBT decided to come to our little reunion. When most of them had arrived, we went out for a late lunch – we all got salad! Some of the salads even had olives! I missed vegetables. Leslie, the PCV in Swakop, forgot to warn the town that PCVs who had been trapped in small villages for two months were coming and that they would marvel at small things like salad dressing, waiters and two story buildings. After lunch was an obligatory stop at the beach and then Super spar, “just to breathe the air”. I believe I even heard “Super spar is my idol” and “My Mecca is Super spar”… Me thinks the PCVs like Super spar. I’m not one to object especially because I found tiny bags of peanut M&M’s tucked into the far corner of the candy isle. Yippee. Then we headed to Leslie’s to catch up, complain about site, do impressions of learners and, generally, remember that we’re not alone in the world. The day ended with a movie on Leslie’s computer (Dream Girls), a shower (with hot water) and blow-drying my hair (am I in heaven?).

Friday morning I woke up at 6 am. Waking up at 6 am is great if I have to go to work, if I’m in my own house or if I’m even in a house where everyone isn’t sleeping on every available floor space until 9 in the morning. But after some finagling I managed to get on some warm clothes (Swakop is cold… well, cold for someone who currently lives on the face of the sun) and walking shoes and go for a walk. It was nice to walk around and be ignored. After my walk and the dead bodies on Leslie’s floor woke up and got ready we all went shopping. Since it was Independence Day, though, all the stores were closed. So, we went to Wimpies for burgers instead. I really wanted to have a hamburger because I don’t eat a lot of meat (mostly lentils and sometimes tuna or chicken, when the price is good). But it turns out that Wimpies’ hamburgers aren’t that good. The meal was saved, though, because their milkshakes are awesome… And I never thought I would write anything like those two sentences in my blog about Africa…

The afternoon was spent lounging on the beach and meeting other NAM27ers who decided to come to Swakop for the long weekend. There were two other groups. One stayed at a backpackers’ hostel just down the street from Leslie’s and the other stayed at a rest camp on the edge of town. The group in the backpackers’ hostel had an extreme weekend planned – they went skydiving on Saturday and sea kayaking on Sunday. As far as I can tell, the group in the rest camp just did a lot of drinking… guess they’re integrating. But, Friday on the beach was a great day with too many Americans to count. Some of us got soft serve ice cream and other took a swim in the ocean. I spent most of Friday in shock and awe also. The beach we were on most closely resembled the Santa Monica Pier and Waikiki. Wow, life’s tough on PC vacation. Thanks Uncle Sam.

Friday night we made a salad at the volunteer house and tried out a pub Leslie had been waiting for friends to check out. Saturday morning was another early morning for me. I spent about an hour wandering around the city on my own and came back to a completely silent house. Luckily, Leslie was awake too so we went out for omelets and hit up some clothes stores on the way back. I got some new shirts with long sleeves - I’ve got high hopes for winter weather. That afternoon, we all went to the beach again and then to a movie theater. The movie theater reminded me of one you could find on an Air Force base, except smaller. The movie showing was 27 Dresses. I’m not sure when it really came out but I don’t remember hearing anything about it before I left the states so I’m going to pretend it’s really recent. It was cute and definitely worth my time while in Namibia, but that’s a skewed opinion. That night we went out for seafood. I had fish and chips and was almost completely convinced we were no longer in Namibia. Luckily, our food took about an hour and a half, so I could continue to believe I was on the continent of Africa.

Sunday was more of the same but with pizza. We got a tub of ice cream at Super spar and celebrated the sunset on the beach with a game of “never have I ever [insert someone’s pastime here]”. If you have ever [insert someone’s pastime here] you eat a bite of ice cream. It was fun but I definitely learned that Peace Corps volunteers are crazy.

Monday I caught a ride with part of the group from the backpackers’ hostel (some of the group included Jill, Amanda and the VSO from Outjo, and one health volunteer from the north). The VSO of the group had a car and was willing to drive us all the Outjo if we just split the petrol. It was so nice to be in car that went directly where we needed exactly when we needed it to. She didn’t even run any errands around the location before we left. I was just glad they didn’t shun me for having a seemingly mundane weekend while they conquered their fear of jumping out of airplanes… though I have yet to see any proof that Jill actually jumped. I think she’s hiding her video from me. It seems you look like you’re about to die right before you jump out of an airplane and who want to publicize that face.

I got home that evening just before dark. We had a long stop in Outjo that involved accidentally falling asleep on Amanda’s floor and then scrambling for a taxi back to Khorixas. The bakkie Jill and I ended up in only went 80K/hour the whole way. And, while thankful for the safety that speed includes, it’s hard to sit in a bakkie for that long.

The whole weekend was really exciting and really relaxing. And, yet, after I write it all out for you, it seems really lame. I guess you’ll just have to believe me that it was great… but that’s a skewed opinion.



April 3, 2008
When you are teaching Namibian children, at times, you are choosing to talk differently than you would in America. You are choosing the words you use carefully. Many times it is taking very much energy to use words and tenses they will know. The clever learners become tired of slow like-singing speaking. But for the good of the whole class, we are speaking badly in English sometimes. The learners are just now studying and writing exams for the end of term. Today they were having English. Tomorrow they will be writing English again. The Natural Science exam will be written on Tuesday. It was very much fun to spend study time with the learners today. They have chosen to spend their study time in the library learning science. They have stood in front of the room and said as much information from memory as they could. Some of them have said the small intestine is coming just after the mouth in the Digestive system. This has made me laugh. We have learned differently since then – we have learned that the Pharynx and esophagus are coming just after the mouth. These learners are special. They are special because some days they are making me angry. Other days they are making me smile and laugh. Sometimes they are making me laugh and making me angry at the same time. It is nice to teach them science and it is nice to talk with them.

Wow, that took a lot more energy to write than to actually speak. When I read back over the paragraph, it sounds ridiculous. If another American is around to witness this sort of English, I usually get laughed at. I can see why now. The other teachers told me that my English is getting easier to understand – they are “coping” with me, was the exact wording, I believe. The learners are quicker to understand me because they’re forced to listen to me daily. Captive audience. I knew there was a reason I liked teaching.

The translation of the poorly written paragraph above:
The learners are now writing (taking) their exams for the end of the first term (there are three in a school year). They have two weeks of exams with only one exam per day. Some subjects have two exams. That is why English takes up two days. Natural science is next Tuesday for grade seven. The exam is ridiculous for many reasons. None of which I believe I could communicate effectively on a blog without offending someone. But I can say, when I first read over the exam, I was infuriated. I think I may have even turned red. The exam is…bogus. But, once I knew the challenge, I made a plan of attack and have been reviewing the “pertinent” information with the kids. This afternoon, I had an optional science review during study. I presented the information and review questions on each topic. The learners would “secretly” look things up in their notes, hidden under their chair or on their friend’s back, to answer the questions first. I don’t think they caught that I actually wanted them to look in their notes and remember. It was cute either way. Then I would have them close their eyes and try to recite things and they would secretly peak when they couldn’t (like when they told me the digestive system progressed: mouth, small intestine, stomach, anus. Eww). Honestly, it was all a lot of fun. When we were training, someone from Nam26 advised us to try to make the learners laugh everyday. He said it would make your whole experience better. Usually, it’s the other way around though. These kids crack me up. Sometimes its because they’re oblivious – but that’s beside the point.

Speaking of cracking up. I heard my first pun from a Namibian today. It went like this:

“Miss, this one is eating all the time in the hostel. She is eating so much. And she is not bathing. Everyday, she is waking up first and she is not bathing…” – Grade 7 girl, joking about her friend

“Miss, this one is lying! She is lying!” – accused friend

“Miss, you can see. I am not lying. I am standing. I am standing here. Not lying” – First girl

Oh, kids.


April 6, 2008
I just succeeded in setting my own watch. This proves two things. First, it proves that I am, in fact, a rocket scientist. I know this because my watch has 18 functions and three buttons. Programming some of these functions require holding down all three buttons at the same time, then repeatedly pushing one until the correct time and date appear. And, even when I have finagled my fingers to perform such a task, I still have to use my rocket science powers to actually figure out what time and day it really is. You see, leap day confused the date on my watch and my poor learners have been living one day in the future in all of my classes. But we were coping. Then, today, it was too much to handle when, at 2:00 this afternoon, the whole country decided to fall back without telling me. So, I took matters into my own hand, subsequently proving that, secondly, I am the most low maintenance person on the planet. Tiny instructions? In Russian? For a different watch model? Did I complain? No. Did I give up? No. Self-sufficient? Me? Yes.

…Unless, of course, I’m the worst kind – I think I’m low maintenance, but really am high maintenance… Oh, Harry.

Erin. That’s for you.

April 11, 2008
I have decided that one of my favorite things in this world are children who have no idea they’re being watched. I caught a little girl having a lengthy conversation with her good friend Thin Air today. It took a good 45 seconds before she realized I was standing there. It was cute. Also, I just ran into this little boy who was convinced he was spider man. I’m pretty sure he was in the middle of working on his theme-song movie intro. There were some great Kung fu kicks in there. I would say 5 if I had to guess his time on earth thus far.

I have also decided that one of my least favorite things in this world are children who want to see: what happens when I push this button eighteen times? Oh, miss Jessica turns red. And that, my friends, is a quality in children that transcends time and culture. And I am also sure my parents and their friends are thinking, k k k karma!

Well, yesterday, I experienced Namibian culture. Done and done. I found it all on my own. It was very conveniently located at my local Parent-Teacher meeting. Oh gosh.

Last night was the first term parents meeting. It “started” at 5pm. I realized that having a supervisor that focuses on punctuality has spoiled me. Occasionally, our 6:50 morning meetings will start at 6:55 or 7:00. But just as often, they start at 6:48 and I walk in on the tail-end of the prayer (unless of course it’s my morning to pray. In which case, it doesn’t start as long as I can keep praying. And I pray in American English, so I could talk for a while and say a lot. Though, sometimes they miss the “Amen” and I have to say it a few times to get everyone to open their eyes). Overall though, our punctual morning meetings have made me forget that 5:00 usually means 5:30 or 6:00 and “now” means later. So, the meeting actually started around 5:45. It was held in the hostel-dining hall. Our school (I hear) is rather large. So the dining hall is a fair size also. All 20 of the teachers and I were placed at a row of tables on a stage in the front of the dining hall. I’m not exactly sure why this set up was chosen but I did find the stare-down aspect of it rather humorous.

At the beginning of the meeting I was introduced to the parents. It was nice to be associated with a group. The teachers were cute as they gave me social cues. Whispering, “stand up now”, “sit down” and pre-warning the crowd that I say my “r”s like my mouth is full of marbles. There was a lot of Damara and then “Jessica Royer” said like a mix between Humphrey Bogart and Scooby Doo. That’s when you know you’re up – the Humphrey-Scooby accent. The other new teacher was introduced also. He’s rather popular in Khorixas though so his introduction was short.

After the introductions, the group spent a few minutes deciding which of Namibia’s plethora of languages the meeting should be translated to. This part was interesting to me because I was unaware of some of the cultural backgrounds at our school. Not everyone in Damaraland is Damara. But most of them do learn the language… unlike their lazy volunteer. I suppose, “but its so hard” just wouldn’t impress you and it would certainly negate the whole watch setting victory from last weekend. How about, “I’ll try harder”. In the end, it seemed that all who could not understand Damara were good in Afrikaans. It was decided the meeting would be conducted in Damara, translated into Afrikaans, with token poppy seeds of English thrown in here and there. I most definitely understand this set up but, honestly, it made me bow my head and laugh throughout the meeting. When someone would get done ranting about covering books or tardiness of learners another would inevitably shout, “Afrikaans!” and the ten-minute spiel would have to be repeated in a second language. Luckily, one of our teachers works at a church (I believe he’s a pastor) and is very good at translating. So when a parent or teacher would speak who was not fluent in one of the other languages, this teacher would jump up and fly through the other required languages. Every so often, he’s a goofball about it. Someone would be speaking in English, get passionate about something and slip back into mother tongue. This teacher just jumps from translating into mother tongue and start translating into English. I really think that translating is a gift. Languages are beyond me. I would like to be able to do what this man does but the gift just eludes me.

Throughout the meeting we covered a variety of topics… or at least it seems we did – mine was the poppy seed language. Two hours into the meeting, it was my turn to inform the parents about a girls’ club I’m trying to get off the ground for second and third term (as per usual, Jill and I are in cahoots about it). I asked one of the female teachers who works closely with the girls in the hostel to help me with my presentation. I was worried that the parents would not understand. It may have been better to ask an upper primary teacher (who teaches in English) to translate but they’re all male. I wanted someone who knows the girls and works with the girls to help me. We just stuck to the script during our two minute presentation and this teacher did great. I really like her. She is always willing to help me. I feel like clueless would get annoying but she never seems to get fed up with me. I thought the parents would appreciate that I was short and sweet and to the point. However, it seems a girls’ club is actually a topic for hot debate. Why not boys? I had quite a few answers welling up, some of them were not so polite: “Well, if you think a boys club is so important, why don’t you just…” Luckily, before I got a single word in, my hero teacher jumped up and answered for me. She said, “When you educate a girl you educate a community…” Beautifully put. Thank you. But, seriously, if this dad wants a boys club why doesn’t he just… I mean, why would the female American teacher spearhead a club to… I mean, come on.

The meeting lasted two and half-hours in total. I was so impressed with a few small kids in the crowd. They entertained themselves by pulling their shirt over their head to see how dark they could get it or by sliding down in their chair and then shooting up as tall as they could sit. I remember those days and its got to be worse when you only understand a third of what’s going on. They didn’t make a peep though. The teachers at the head table started pulling out newspapers and cell phones (myself included). At one point, they even started passing around a bottle of new perfume someone bought. The sitting was intense, but we all managed to pull through. After the meeting, I thought about sticking around and meeting some parents but it seems they were even more interested in dinner. Understandable. Instead, I just walked out the door, took a few steps, walked into my flat, turned on some Beatles and hid - You say you want a revolution? Well, you know, we all want to change the world.

Today was our third to last day of exams. My grade six math class will write two math exams next week. The first one will be easy for about half of them (the ones who listen in class). The second test is going to kick all of their butts. I taught the material. They weren’t getting it though. In the end, we just ran out of time in the term. Recently, I’ve realized that it’s not always the kids’ fault when they don’t get something. I can think back on a few times in my life where it was really obviously the teacher’s fault and I blamed it on myself. When more than three quarters of the class is drawing a blank, something has gone awry. It doesn’t help that the second test will be their last test. By then, all they’re thinking about is jumping into the dam at the farm. Who wants to be changing a mixed number to an improper fraction at that time in the term? Seriously.

Tuesday was grade seven’s day. Since then, I’ve sat in that library staring at far too many Natural science exams written by far too many learners who have never taken a spelling test (you have to remember it’s a verbal culture – speaking 4 languages is no big deal. Writing in them all? Almost unheard of). If you’ll allow me a few examples:

Q: What are four things boys can expect during puberty?
A: He get hers on faes. He get hers unda hams.

Q: What system is the brain, spinal cord and nerves a part of?
A: the System system

Q: What is a sphincter?
A: Killing a person

Q: Describe two adaptations of fish to their environment.
A: the fish is aw food and fish is good for pebpls.

Q: Mention three things that are important for a good relationship.
A: You must no peat each other.
Or
A: Kiss the Laydy. Be vei full.

Q: Mention some ways to maintain sexual health.
A: Sai a wei frum boys.

Love it.

But, I did go cross-eyed trying to finagle points for these kids. Now that I’m done grading their papers I have to hand them in to be moderated. It just means the subject head at our school has to check and make sure my grading is ok. I’m a little worried about this because a lot of my good learners got around 50%. I’m worried that the subject head is going to make me grade them all again because too many my learners scored too high (that’s right, 50 is high). Does this happen other places? Is it weird for a whole class to pass (in my case its really only about 25 kids but that’s beside the point)? I don’t remember it being weird but I’m forgetting.

Luckily, in grade six, I don’t have to worry about re-grading. The kids will take care of that for me… oh, gosh. These kids. I can’t even imagine. They’re set up to fail - literally expected to. Hey mom, dad, thanks for telling me I could be a ballerina or oceanographer or artist. Good childhood. You did good.

Speaking of good parents, I got three packages when I went to the post office today. “Nampost” only gets packages on Thursday from Otjiwarongo. Then is takes them a week or four to let us know they have one for us. Honestly, I only go to the post office with really low expectations these days. I went today with the same expectations but felt a little of my 1st grade self come out when the PO box was empty. I didn’t think it was important but it turns out spending my birthday without even a card was actually going to get to me. Lucky for me, Jill is more proactive about such things and generally asks inside the post office. Usually, this doesn’t actually do anything though - They don’t know our boxes are back there. But today, they magically produced three boxes for me. Yippee! There’s definitely happy birthday paper in one of them. I’m admiring the wrapping job just now. Thanks family.

In the other two boxes? Girl scout cookies. I’m feeling sick.

15 April 2008
Today was the last day of school for the learners. At our 10:00 break we all met in the middle of the school to officially close the term. In the morning, I spent most of my time in the library trying to mark and organize papers. I say trying because the grade sevens have taken to sitting on the desk staring at me for the past week. I tell them to leave and go study for their next exam but, like “good” kids, they leave for a few minutes and come right back. It wouldn’t be so bad if they weren’t sooo much more interesting than their exams - By the end of most days I find that I’ve talked more about hair and boys and America and mothers than grading science and math exams. Anyway, I was actually getting some work done today when my learners came in and said, “Miiiiiiissssss! (said like “mass” with a Georgia accent at the top of your lungs) it’s finished! It’s time to go!” I said, “I’m coming just now.” (which means I’ll be right there). I walked out to the official closing and found all the learners and one teacher. The learners are really good about using these lull times to practice their singing. Whenever my learners practice their impromptu singing is when I most feel like I’m in Africa. I’m not sure why this is, but if you visit and listen, I’m sure you’ll feel that way too. We have assemblies a lot, so I occupied my normal spot along, what I like to call, the firing squad wall (the teachers all stand in front to stare down the learners). Every so often, one of my learners would run up and tell me to have a wonderful holiday and that they were going to miss me. Now, they could have just been trying to score cute points but I think it was genuine… but even if it wasn’t, it was cute.

After the assembly, all the learners left to go home. The rest of today has been really quiet and a little eerie. Every hour or so someone will knock on my door to tell me they are leaving. I tell them to be safe and have fun and then they’re gone in whatever bakkie or cart that has come to collect them. By the time all of them make it back from the farm it will be a month before I see them again. I’m ready for the break but we have just spent a lot of quality time (three and a half months) with each other. I think I’m going to miss them too.

In our work time for the rest of the week, my supervisor is requesting that all upper primary teachers prepare lesson plans for the beginning of second term. Personally, I think this is really wise plan because I’m not expecting to go anywhere near my preparation binder in my three weeks off. Currently, I am working on my natural science lesson plans. This term, we started with health educations, moved on to systems of the body and finished with ecosystems. Next term we are starting with the scientific method and then moving quickly to matter. I’m not sure what comes after matter because I haven’t gotten that far. We have two government issued papers that dictate what to teach and when to teach it: the Scheme of Work and the Syllabus. The Scheme of work tells us when to teach each topic. The syllabus tells you what the kids actually need to know and be able to do for the exams. Then, you have to fill out your plan to execute these requirements and file them in your preparation binder. Personally, I like this system because I’m the kind of person who goes to the office supply section of a store “just to look”. Dividers make my day… Anyway, in all my planning, I found some interesting requirements that I thought I would share with you.

In the Scheme of Work for the beginning of term two:

Themes: Scientific Process

Topics:
1) Estimating and Measuring
2) Observing
3) Classifying

Allotted time: 1 week


Ok. Fair enough. Now, let’s breeze over to the syllabus to investigate what each of these topics actually require the learners to know.

Topic 1: Estimating and Measuring

Learning objective: Learners will know how to estimate and measure length, mass, time, temperature and the area of regularly shaped (right-angled) objects.

Basic competencies: Learners should be able to 1) Estimate and measure: length, mass, time and temperature; temperature of melting ice; the height of a fellow learner and the mass of school bags using appropriate methods. 2) Calculate the area of regularly shaped (right angled) objects. 3) Convert minutes and hours to seconds. 4) Convert units of length, mass, time and area. 5) Follow sequence of instructions. Use appropriate techniques. Handle apparatus/material competently and have due regard for safety. 6) make and record estimates and measurements accurately. 7) Handle and process experimental observations and data.


Topic 2: Observing

Learning objective: Learners will know how to observe properties such as colour, size, feel, sound, shape and smell of a variety of substances.

Basic Competencies: Learners should be able to 1) Make and record observations. 2) Observe properties such as colour, size, feel, sound, shape and smell of a variety of substances. 3) Observe properties of a variety of common substances such as sugar, salt, tea, coffee, sand, pepper and flour. 4) Process experimental observations and data.


Topic 3: Classifying

Learning Objective: Learners will know how to group common objects in a number of different ways.

Basic Competencies: Learners should be able to 1) Compare and distinguish properties of common objects. 2) Group (classify) objects in a variety of ways


Allotted time: 1 week





I allowed two “…” just so I would be sure to breathe in and out a few times before commenting on any of this. In fact,



Ok. First. 1 week? 1 week = five 40 minute periods = 200 minutes = 3 hours and 20 minutes. Maybe 1 week per topic. Even that would be in a good, smooth-running world. But here? We’re working on English and getting to class on time here. I’m sure some of you still think the above is plausible… And I say, buy a ticket to Namibia and I will show you what a real class period is: first five minute, stand in door and wait for learners. Next ten minutes, let learners move desks/go look for boards to make desks out of. Next ten minutes, convince learners to get out their exercise book and allow them to run around borrowing pens and pencils. Last fifteen minutes, write and explain a few notes on the board. In the last fifteen minutes the learners also attempt to copy said notes but, living in a verbal culture, only actually achieve writing the date and underlining it (with a ruler they waited ten minutes for and got in a fist fight over). These ideas and skills are not beyond the scope and intelligence of my kids but they’re certainly not grasp-able in 1 week.

Second, allow me the indulgence of nit-picking, please? Ready?
I’m the only one with a watch. No one has a thermometer. And even with a thermometer, where am I expecting to find enough ice for 70+ 7th graders? There are two bathroom scales for sale in Khorixas – I am not planning on buying either one for this lesson plan. How does a sequence of instructions and due regard for safety have anything to do with measurements? And how exactly would they like the learners to handle experimental observations? And with what experiment are we having enough time to even collect data? Color, size, feel and sound are all easy – when you know the words for them! Sugar, salt, tea, coffee? I can’t even keep enough food in my house for me; where is all this experimentation food coming from? And I swear on my life, these learners would eat it before observing it. Above that, none of this is even mentioned in the textbook. And, to top it all off, one week?



Ok. I’m done. Thanks.

To be fair, maybe I’m being too judgmental. Maybe I’m not allowing enough grace for a school system that is in the middle of a rocky start. Maybe I’m not working hard enough to make these lessons work. Maybe. But for now, thanks for letting me explain things with my culture sunglasses on… Have I explained the culture sunglasses, yet? Eh, just imagine them – I’m sure you’ll come close.

Well, the crickets are sounding in the hostel yard now. That’s how quiet it is. And before I go I have one more discovery for your precious ears. I found a poster today in the library that had the names of important insect life in Namibia. One of them quite nicely fit the description of the giant robot beetles I tried to explain earlier. The official name is “Armoured Ground Cricket” and in Latin “Acanthoplus discoidalis”. I’m not sure if those are the appropriate names for the most heinously ugly bug I have ever encountered, but google it. If it looks like a robot tank approximately the same size as the palm of your hand, then you’ve got the right bug… and it’s not leaving. Day and night, “chirping” on my door, on my windows, on the grass, everywhere. Ugh. (I will testify that hitting them like a hockey puck with an old broom is quite stress relieving though)(But, heathen American, my learners think its cruel)(even though those same learners hid around a corner until a girl walks by and then throw it in her hair. Terrible, but one of the lesser forms of trouble they could be getting into)(and the bugs have destroyed hundreds of crops this year)(Either way, I can’t tell you. You decide)

As always, more later. I’ve got more breathing to do



16 April 2008
I know I just wrote yesterday, but I forgot to tell you something. Once I tell you what it is you’re going to wonder how you survived this long without knowing. Are you ready?

You see, this past Sunday morning I decided it was a chore day. Lately, I have discovered that I need a housewife. I just can’t seem to do all my dishes, cooking, laundry and shopping. It’s a recent development that I would like to blame on the continent I live on. However, I have few continents to compare it with so I will restrain myself. All that is to say, if you want the job, I’m now accepting applicants – there is no pay, but you get your own hostel cot, my love and a great tan.

Anyway, chore day started out with taking my empty backpack to Multisave to fill with delicious food. It was nice morning so I took the long way around and ended at the petrol station right next to Multisave. As I walked around the corner I hear someone yell, “hey, I know that person!” I stood there and stared and tried to figure out why this person was yelling at me. It finally registered that it was another PCV from Waterburg near Okakarara. I know her well but honestly seeing another American in Khorixas is the same as if they had actually flown over that day to see me. I think I would have given my own mother that look. It turns out her, her dad (who had flown in the week before) and two other PCVs were driving through Khorixas to visit Twyfelfontein (twelf –on –tayn sometimes –teen). They said hop in, let’s go. Adventure? Random? I miss it. Chore day was out the window. I was in.

It took about and hour and forty five minutes to get to Twyfelfontein. I enjoyed every minute of it. Sabrina had fruit roll ups. Emily had biltong (beef jerky-ish). The rental car had air conditioning. Melissa had new tunes. Even with back-middle, the trip could have just been sitting in the car all day and I would have been a happy camper.

For those of you who don’t know Twyfelfontein is the site of “one of the most extensive galleries of rock art in Africa,” containing “6000-year-old petroglyphs” – as read from the Namibia section of the Southern Africa guide book. Just before this entry it talks about Khorixas. The lovely description says, “Although it’s the administrative capital of Damaraland, Khorixas serves mainly as a refueling spot and a supply stop.” Sound like a place to spend two years? I think they just say that because they haven’t heard my learners sing yet. When you arrive at Twyfelfontein, the office is made out of old oil drum lids welded together. It is really quite creative but, recently, I have had a bit of trouble distinguishing between art and poverty-driven necessity (tin can wall? creative or required?). To see the rocks it cost N$30 for foreigners and N$20 for residents, including Peace Corps volunteers (yes!), with ID (which I always forget, so blaming the randomness just wouldn’t do. They let me in on resident price anyway).

Our guide showed us The Lion Man path. It seems all of the drawings were once inside a cave. At some time though the cave collapsed. Now the cave walls are only piles of huge rocks. It is interesting to see how different rocks fell. Some of the walls fell perfectly for us to see the drawings on them. I can only imagine what drawings are hidden under and between rocks. The path we took was called The Lion Man path because it has the famous drawing of Twyfelfontien – a lion with a really long tail depicting a myth about a man periodically transforming into a lion. There are also picture of giraffes, rhinos, maps of the land and penguins and seals (from South African visitors). It was all very interesting and a bit whimsical. Speculating about the past, in my head, is a cross between Far Side cave men grunting and a couple of kids burying a time capsule with their favorite toys. I mean, what if they were just playing Tic-Tac-Toe? If you save anything long enough, it becomes valuable.

By the time I made it back to Khorixas it was far too late in the day to do any chores. Plus, I had a headache from wandering around in the almost desert with little water in the heat of the day to look at rocks (I guess random isn’t always the smartest way to go). However, all things considered, eating rice for an extra day and having my co-workers judge my wrinkled dirty clothes was a small price to pay for an overall great day. At the very least it was nice to be one of the smiling tourists stopping at the petrol station outside of Multisave (they all read the guide book. They know: refuel and get supplies. That’s all). Usually, I’m the volunteer sitting on the stoop of Multisave staring at the smiling tourist and wishing I were that happy to be “in Africa”. But, at the end of the day, I get to hear my learners sing and they just get petrol and a coke ;)

April 23






It's vacation! Woo hoo! I'll spare you the details of PC vacation on a budget though. Let's just say, if you need me to read something or do something for you, these two weeks are the time to ask... Time - I've got plenty of it. Overall, I'm enjoying my vacation though. Then at the end of two weeks we have reconnect in Windhoek with all of group 27. I'm really excited about it.












Here's a shout out to all the graduates out there. Congratulations! And, trust me, you will be fine! Life goes on. Even if you don't know what you're doing with your life, you will be fine. It will all turn out exactly like its supposed to ;)



















Sunday, March 23, 2008

Our squatter's camp. There are hundreds more like these.
Me. Awkwardly standing in front of Khorixas. It's my K town...



The view from our cellphone tower hill. Purdy!


March 8, 2008
I don’t know I why I never gave much thought to hard-boiled eggs before in my life. They are the perfect food. They are full of protein that didn’t come from a goat or a 40-dollar bag of chicken. They cook in their shell – which is clean, even if a cockroach was crawling in the pan. And they travel… just like me. The only problem is I can’t eat them in front of people or I feel like Anne from Arrested Development (“I’m sure egg is a very lovely girl”).

So much has happened in the last week, I’m not sure if I can sum it all up. Last Friday was Leap day! Yay! In order to celebrate leap day and our continuing sanity, a group of 10-15 PCVs were going to come to Khorixas for Mexican food (not surprisingly, a rare commodity in Namibia). It was going to be Taco Fest ’08. I was so excited to hang out with a lot of Americans, eat tacos and generally relax without having to travel long distances. Sadly though, a few days before Taco Fest ’08 the PC Namibia decided to crack down on travel. This meant that only three were close enough to get permission to make the trip. Apparently, Nam27 is just too young in their Namibian lives to successfully travel around the country. Which is odd, because we weren’t too young during training (“just hike (hitch hike) back from shadowing. It’s in your budget to take a taxi too”) and at the beginning of service in January (my supervisor had to explain how to get a taxi in Khorixas. She’s helpful… really helpful. I hear this makes me a lucky PCV duck). But, overall, I can understand the PC not wanting the responsibility to inform families back home about a car accident or similarly devastating incident. (And don’t tell them I said, but rumor has it, we’re standing on the shoulders of a few previous Nam volunteers with less than excellent travel judgment… but you didn’t hear it from me).

I was disappointed at first but it turned out that the partial cancellation of Taco Fest ’08 would work in my favor. For the past couple of weeks, my co-workers have been telling me to pack my bags. And no, they didn’t want to get rid of me. My flat near the hostel was almost ready and they were excited that I was about to move closer to school. I was excited too (the daily tour of K town was getting old) and so I spent the 25th packing the things I didn’t use on a daily basis. Luckily, that was also the day my house-mate was cleaning the volunteer house so I was given some Tupperware without lids, ancient pans, plastic wine glasses, a couple of sink stoppers, an old collection of glass peanut butter jars and a mediocre toasted sandwich maker (it takes about 20 minutes to toast bread). I was told in my replacement letter (where a previous PCV at your site will write you a letter giving you the ins and outs. I think I mentioned this letter when I wrote about getting my site assignment), things in the volunteer house left by previous volunteers became a part of the house and, therefore, needed to remain there. So, I felt a little guilty taking them. But in the end, I overcame my guilt by looking at the kitchenware as loaners. I’ll return anything worthy of return after two years (read: the glass jars are not being toted back across town).

I spent the whole week waiting for someone to say “Surprise! It’s time to move.” Then, on Leap Day, I was teaching my last science class when one of the teachers at my school came in to tell me my furniture was being delivered. The PC Namibia requires that we get a means to cook (stove), a bed, a table and chairs. I also got two extra mattresses and a refrigerator (I think the fridge might be required also, but I’m not sure). I asked for five extra minutes to finish up my lesson (I was having all my learners hold bread in their mouths for 20 minutes to experience the effects of saliva. True, I could just tell them what saliva does, but would it really be science if I just told them?) and then I headed over the hostel yard to see my furniture and new flat. When I got to my flat it was a bustle of activity. The hostel matron was putting the finishing touches on cleaning. The math teacher was moving my table in. The two HODs (Head of Department) were removing the wrapping and Styrofoam from my new refrigerator. All the work was being done for me. I was a little in the way – which a feeling I’ve never appreciated. Luckily, the work was done so quickly (odd for this country but, land of contrast, can be expected from time to time) they finished within 20 minutes and gathered me, another teacher and four Ministry of Works men to drive to town and collect my things. With all those men, you would have thought moving my stuff would have been a breeze. And I’m sure I made it look effortless as they watched me carry five loads out to the truck from the comfort of the shade and the consolation of a cold beer. The work went quick enough though. I was out of the house before my housemate even started making her lunch. I made a promise to come back later in the day and clean my room, hopped in the truck and, as per tradition, ran a few other people’s errands on the way back to my flat (cars are the valuable commodity. Everybody wants a ride).

That afternoon I had left class at about 1:00 and was in my new flat with furniture and all my things by 1:45. It was a big change for 45 minutes. But, just as quickly as everyone had shown up to help, they all disappeared with the reassurance that they would be back with light bulbs and gas for the stove before 5:00. “Just wait here,” I was told. Great… But, wait… Friday afternoon was beginning to look miserable with no food and a leash to my new apartment. I decided to bolt to a take-away (a hole-in-the-wall type grocery store) in the location for shortbread cookies and Simba chips (made by Lays, I think). Of course I chose the wrong time because as I came running back around the corner some blue jumpsuits (Ministry of Works) were waiting on my stoop to make my new toilet flush (a problem I wasn’t even aware I had). While those two were hard at work on the plumbing, two more blue guys showed up to work on the light bulbs. But, they forgot a ladder, so one ran back to the ministry to snag one. He came back with a ladder and another blue guy (who was out to prove that it’s always 5:00 somewhere). About that time, two Eddie Bowe teachers meandered in “just to take a look.” While I was showing the teachers around and carefully avoiding the plastered blue guy, we heard this terrible thudding noise and ran outside to take a look. The truck carrying my gas had arrived and (driven by blue guy) was stuck in a ditch. The truck went forward, then backward, then forward, backward, forward, backward… My gas tank rolling to the front of the truck bed, then to the back, then to the front, back, front, back… Now, I’m no expert, but I don’t want anything ruining the structural integrity of a 5-foot tank of anything explosive that’s going to park itself in my house. Luckily, the beer drunken earlier or our raised eyebrows convinced this blue guy to stop and let the gas go.

My house was humming. It was full of men in blue jump suits and people debating the best way to set up an American house. As the work dwindled down, I watched five men in blue jumpsuits and two Eddie Bowe teachers debating how to screw in a light bulb and my imagination wandered: “How many Namibians does it take to screw in a light bulb? I would have put my money on two or three… but five to seven, hmmm…” and I couldn’t help but laugh out loud. I’m sure there’s a lame joke in there somewhere. If you find it, let me know. And, Mom, Dad, let the little blue guy jokes run rampant.

Everyone was gone by 4:45. I shut the door and locked it. It was time to breathe. I was so lucky to get such specialized attention on a Friday. Even though it was stressful, I’m going to try to treasure the memory because it’ll probably be a year before another blue suit walks into my flat – Welcome to the do-it-yourself chapter of my life. I didn’t rest too long because I still had to walk back to town to clean my old room.

On my way back to my new flat from town, I stopped by Jill’s to see what had become of Taco Fest ’08. With the action of the day, I was a little out of the loop. I found Jill just chilling in her apartment alone. I was equally exhausted. So I found a cozy spot on her tiled floors to call mine while she broke the news about Taco Fest ’08. It turned out that two from Katmanjab were coming much later that night and one from Outjo didn’t know when she was coming. While she was telling me the unfoldings of the travelers and the Fest the sun went down and I found myself laying on a tile floor in the dark, exhausted and disgusting, reveling in the hilarity of the fest we had planned for that night. Earlier, we had even considered making a piñata for the occasion. The irony of this place is too much to handle at times. All I can say is, go ahead and make plans – just don’t plan on using them.

That night, I spent the first night in my flat. If any of you are considering the Peace Corps, or moving to another country in general, you should know that things you think make a home are not always what you would expect. In America, I would have said company, comfort and convenience make a house a home. But here I’ve discovered all I need is my fan, my mosquito net and some fashion of privacy. I like the poetry in my previous line of thinking but it’s much easier to get a fan and mosquito net here. So, after setting up my fan, hanging my mosquito net (more to keep out the cockroaches, beetles and other various forms of evil than actual mosquitoes) and pinning some sheets in the window, it was time for bed in the comfort of my new home.

The next morning, I stopped by Taco Fest ’08 to find three PCVs and one unexpected VSO had made it to Khorixas. Things were looking up for the Fest. We all walked to town to hit up Multisave, PEP and the hardware store. Then we spent the day relaxing in the company of other Americans (and one Canadian). At the end of the day, I took everyone on a nature hike (and by “I took everyone” I mean I got schooled by one who practically ran up the cell phone tower hill, two had been before and two stayed behind to actually make the tacos… but who’s counting). We watched the sun set from the hill. When we got back to Jill’s, it was time for tacos. Taco Fest ’08 rating: Tacos? Great. Fest? I’ve had better. ’08? There had better be a ’08.5 or that was a bit of a bust. Truthfully, though, it was good to hang out and eat Mexican food. I felt… what’s that word… oh, yeah, normal.

Sunday and the rest of the week, I spent trying to set up my flat. Monday after school, the teachers all met at my flat to throw me a surprise party. It was so sweet. They decorated the outside of my flat with paper roses and signs that said, “Welcome home J. Roger”… I know… just look the other way and smile… They also brought sodas and a tray full of goat meat. We were all sitting on the floor (because I only have two chairs) eating our goat. I American-finished my meat (which means I didn’t pick the bone clean) and was trying to hide the leftovers (because if there’s still meat on the bone, someone will eat it), when they gave me a huge bag full of dishes. They were all orange and white stripes – totally cute. Then on Wednesday morning, the hostel matrons gave me another gift bag full of dishes. They were totally cute too. And I feel like these people get me because in all those dishes there were six coffee mugs. That’s my kind of gift!

Otherwise, setting up my apartment has been a battle to get curtains up that will deter the little eyes that are so curious about my life. I would love to share it with them but I don’t feel so comfortable with them knowing I have a computer, Ipod, camera and an overall fancy-smancy lifestyle. The only thing they seem overly interested in, though, is the food. I have my own theories on this but some of them involve me being bitter about consistently being asked for a piece of bread, so we’ll reserve those for another day. The other battle is the cockroaches. You can say, “gross” but I say, “This means war”. Those little devils just twitch their antennae at me and say, “What are you gonna do about it, huh? Huh?” They’re going down.

As always, more later - I’ve got war to wage

March 13, 2008
Time here is an enigma. Time everywhere is an enigma. Some days just fly by and others are pulling my teeth out one at a time with no drugs. This week was one where I lost a lot of teeth.

This past weekend, Jill and I walked out to the Rest Camp just outside Khorixas. They have a pool, restaurant, palm trees and a gift shop. Nothing says western like a gift shop. It was nice to have someone give me a sprite with ice in the glass and to be able to put my feet in a blue pool (even if it doesn’t have chlorine: a chemical I feel is even more necessary in Africa). Walking out there, I was hoping that an out-of-the-ordinary afternoon would make everything feel right again. But my hopes were not answered. While it was nice, I was still in Khorixas.

Don’t get me wrong; it’s not Khorixas… it’s just that I haven’t left since February 1st. It takes me 25 minutes to walk from one side of the city to the other. And what’s on the other side, you ask? Another view of the middle of nowhere! Its truly fascinating living in one of the least populated countries on the planet but I have cabin fever!

I hope to remedy this problem next weekend with my plans to visit Swakopmund for the Easter holiday. Judging by how iffy travel in this country is though, I’m trying not to get my hopes up too much. But, honestly, if this trip falls through, I may actually go crazy – real crazy, the kind where you don’t know you’re crazy. I’ll be sure to keep you posted… that is if I remember how to use a keyboard in my demented state…

Well, as you can see, I’ve started occupying my time by making personal sanity threats online. But I have healthier outlets too. On Monday, Tuesday and Thursday afternoons the kids have “study” from 3 to 4. This means, from what I can tell, the kids all come back to school to sit in a classroom and play the quiet game. I’m sure they’re doing something but it’s definitely not homework for my class (Average marks on my last math homework assignment? 0/25. My optimism is waning. Sorry). This next Monday, I chose six Grade 7 learners to train to work in the library during study. I asked for volunteers who would be willing to help me re-shelf books, sweep and mop the library every week. I got about 50 out of the 75 Grade 7 learner sign up to help (this only furthers my theory that they’re not doing anything in study). So, I made a quiz for them to show off their alphabetizing and organizing ability then chose the 6 top scorers to help. I’m really excited for the extra help and for kids practicing having extra responsibility. Also on Mondays, Jill has taken over a club called “Window’s of Hope”. It is a national program that is taught at a lot of schools. It teaches kids more about HIV, AIDS, puberty and relationships. If the kids come to every meeting, they get a certificate (which has a lot more draw than you would initially think). There’s a Windows group for Grade 4-7. We work with Grade 7. I’ve been helping with the club also – which really just means, Jill does all the planning and I show up to hang out and remind the kids to stop talking when someone else it talking. I also got to give the lecture on what each reproductive organ does, from a biological standpoint (I remember my high school Anatomy and Physiology teacher said, “it makes me blush,” when we got to that topic so he brought in a nurse to teach the reproductive chapter. And in his memory, I’m going to admit that it makes me blush too).

On Tuesdays, I have Reading during study. The Grade 6 and Grade 7 teachers picked 5 learners from each class that had “reading difficulties”. This means that they can’t read at all. According to their Khoekhoe teacher, they read better in English that they do in Khoekhoe. I think there’s a fundamental problem with me trying to teach them how to read in English without them first being able to read in Mother Tongue… but who am I to be a pessimist… and I don’t know how to teach reading in Khoekhoe (actually, I think one of the teachers is considering starting a reading group for Khoekhoe too). I have to admit, though, I’m kind of at a loss for how to teach a target language while only being able to communicate in that target language - especially when I’m not that great at drawing.

Wednesday and Thursday afternoons I spend doing a variety of things. Mostly, this means watching TV on DVD (Desperate Housewives Season 2 and, currently, Lost Season 1 – which I already watched during training but its worthy of another go), obsessively cleaning my flat to defeat the cockroaches, making some form of unhealthy food to devour (Sandies are my new favorite cookies. Who knew donuts were so easy? And why does anybody buy brownie mix?) and, on good days, testing my bravery by picking the busiest time of day to walk on a new street in the location (it takes a lot of greeting energy but usually ends up being worth it). On Fridays, I usually check my PO box and spend a bit of time listening to the Shebeen music in the Donkerhoek (the squatter’s and I are neighbors now. They really know how to live it up).

Last Friday, my learners had a choir concert. They told me it started at 6. We showed up at 6 to an empty hall with the kids singing on stage. They would sing a part of a song and then stop. Then they would start another song and the choir director would get a cell phone call and stop the whole thing. It was really odd. When our choir came down off the stage and another school took the stage we figured it was a good time to go home. I was stopped at the door and asked why I was only going to stay for the rehearsal. The real show didn’t start until 8. We decided to leave anyway but got stopped by one of my learners who was so sad we were leaving early. It broke my heart a little. She’s a tomboy with a sensitive soul – my kind of girl. In the end, though, she was just happy that we showed up for rehearsal.

That about wraps up the recent happenings in my humble life but before I go, let me just tell you about a wise NAM27 friend of mine. He thinks some things he does sound normal: I did my dishes… I ate a tuna fish sandwich… I went for a bike ride… He also thinks a few things he does sounds impressive… I went rafting… I went bungee jumping… I defeated a snake… But, the reason my friend is so wise is because he’s realized that with the simple phrase “IN AFRICA!!!” the mundane sounds exhilarating: I did my dishes IN AFRICA… I went for a bike ride IN AFRICA… And the impressive sounds almost unbelievable: I went rafting IN AFRICA… I went bungee jumping IN AFRICA… So, because it seems a lot of what I’m doing these days is mundane and a little down to earth for this whole post I’m going to add:

…IN AFRICA!!!

And hope that you feel a little more impressed with my life : )


March 18, 2008
When I first arrived in Namibia, I didn’t notice a lot of weird or unusual bugs. Throughout training I saw the occasional scorpion, many mosquitoes and one or two freakish yellow-segmented “hair-eating spiders” (I think they made up the hair eating part, and frankly, the spider part too – they look more like miniature lobsters). Since I’ve been at site, I’ve changed my tune. I have become far more acquainted with Namibia’s insect life than I ever could have hoped for.

In Khorixas it seems you can measure the seasons by the bugs. The type/species/color/sound of bugs change every week or every two weeks. When I first arrived in January I saw large black beetles with three bright stripes. Then there were the flat wall spiders (they’re really really flat. Its bizarre). Wing-shedding termites came next, followed by the bird-sized moth. The moths were trailed by the black “ho-ho” – a smelly beetle that only travels in hundreds. And most recently, we enjoy the company of bright red and green robot beetles. I call them robots because nothing organic should ever move the way they do. Lucky for us, the flys and mosquitoes are constants and with all this changes I need a few rocks in my life.

And the cockroaches… oh, the roaches. They’re new… and un-welcomed in my life.

March 19, 2008

Today is the last day of school for the week. I am so thankful for this long weekend. I’ve been in a funk lately. The funk is partially due to me spending too much time “alone” (read: I am always around people but I’m rarely with people. Does that make sense?) and it’s partially due to me being overly aware of cultural differences. Lately, I only seem to be able to focus on how differently I think and act. I find myself starting thoughts with “At home…” and “When I was in school…” On one hand, it’s definitely not healthy to compare and judge so much. On the other hand, a kid threw a rock at me yesterday while screaming “white person!” in Damara… So, I have a distinct feeling I’m being judged too.

Maybe judging isn’t the right word though. Maybe, more often, it’s observing. My learners like to observe. They like to observe freckles, eyes, “painings” (sunburns, scratches, pimples…), length or “bigness” of “hairs”, eyes, eyebrows, accents, walking, backpack carrying, drawing, writing… the list goes on but it only gets more pathetic. The kids love to tell me how I do everything differently and why I look different. It’s a little too much for me to handle sometimes. When volunteers return to America, they say they miss the attention. They say they wonder why no one cares that they’re walking through town and why no one marvels at their mundane accomplishments. So, when I get home, I’m going to need you all to tell me you can see my veins, that I walk like a man and that I have big hairs. Just every so often until I re-adjust to being normal. And I’ll be sure to say, “Well, in Namibia, I…” just so you can feel a little judged too. Deal?

Ah, I kid, but it’s only because everyone’s thinking it and I’m just trying to say it.

Aside from the mind games, things at site are going pretty great. Last Friday night, an acquaintance invited some of us to a concert. The choir was from Outjo and has been traveling around singing about discrimination. It was an event for the youth so it was held at the secondary school. It was a lot of fun for a few reasons. First, it was fun to be out after dark. I believe admitting that only solidifies my less than sparkling social life reputation. Normally, though, walking around any African city is a bit intimidating in the dark. Since I’ve moved to the location though it’s been a lot easier to find someone to walk with. It takes about ten extra minutes but everyone gets dropped off. Daytime. Nighttime. It’s all fair game now. I’m liberated! Hey, don’t judge. I know I’m a grandma. Second, it was fun because many of the faces I’ve met are becoming repeats. I really like a lot of the locals I see around town on a regular basis. It’s good to talk to people who realize that you’re another person – not just a wallet, white skin or a potential girlfriend (they’re big on quick “commitment” here, so let’s be honest… another wife. And I did mean to say another. Two? Three? Eh, who doesn’t have five wives these days?). It’s nice that I’m finding some familiar friends to talk to. It makes me feel safe. If something goes awry I know there are a few who would be quick to my rescue. And, third, it was fun because choral education here is silly. Don’t tell any of the performers, but when they sing a whole song about saying no to sugardaddies I giggle. I even giggle when I’m sitting in the front row. You know, it’s just been awhile since I’ve heard the word “sugardaddy” in three-part harmony. Overall, the kids are doing a good thing. It’s great that they want to help their community in any form. It’s going to make them more well rounded in the long run. And well rounding is a skill that hard to come by in these parts.

Today, I spent a lot of time just talking to learners. Since it was the last day, the kids were eager to get back to their farms for the long weekend. This made them less than keen on the whole learning science idea. I called some kids in for discipline from a problem yesterday but I just didn’t have the heart. Instead I told them they had a job to do – I made them tear paper into tiny pieces so that we could make new paper. They loved it. I know it’s probably a bad idea to have learners love discipline. I’ll reap the benefits of that later. The other kids in class heard about the tough discipline and came running. Pretty soon we just had a huge paper tearing party. It felt a little like a sleepover. It could have been all the observations or just that I was hanging out with a lot of 7th graders. It was fun either way. And, bonus, they’re learning how to recycle and brushing up on their English skills by telling me all about the city’s gossips – there’s far too much to keep track of (not surprisingly, most of it involves alcohol and hangovers).

Well, I’ve got to finish packing for my big weekend away tomorrow. Travel here is beast. It really grates on the planning part of my personality. If I lived anywhere else, I would actually know how I’m getting to my destination tomorrow. But here, I’m just waking up in the morning, taking my backpack and walking in search of some combi (van) that’s headed to Swakopmund also. I’ve got a good feeling about 7am tomorrow. I figure if I’m up early, someone’s bound to be leaving throughout the day. Apparently I missed four combis that already left today, though. I’m thankful for cars and the fact that one day I will drive one again. An, if I want to, I will be the only person in that car - wasting gas, radio blaring and feeling great about it all.

See you in Swakop!



Today:

I made it to Swakopmund. I'm sure I'll have a lot to say about it later. But I can tell you now that I'm back in America... I've mentally blocked the idea that this city could be in Namibia. The idea that soon I will be going back to roosters, donkeys, rocks, dust, and cold water bucket baths is a little too much to think about when you're drink has an umbrella in it and you went to a movie theater last night. Am I still in the Peace Corps?

Saturday, February 23, 2008

The Lot of a Dung Beetle

February 11, 2008

In staging (the Washington DC part of training), Peace Corps tries to prepare you for arriving in country. I think it’s a noble cause but, let’s be honest, nothing prepares you for being in country. Regardless, before we left, I did get one piece of valuable advice that I still use today. The woman leading our hotel-conference room sessions told us, “Just open the door. Everyday, open the door.”

Now, I know this sounds simple when outside is your Starbuck’s cup of coffee, your car and, most importantly, hundreds of strangers who could care less that you left your house today. But, while living here, I’ve grown to miss these strangers. I miss not being cared about. I miss anonymity.

My walk to work everyday is pretty great. First, I leave my house and lock three doors on my way out. Getting out of “town” requires dodging various domestic animals, including guard dogs, whole flocks of chickens and the occasional goat. Then, I hop over the guardrail to the main road. The paved road! I love the paved road! And since it’s still dark and you can see for miles anyway, I walk a bit down the middle of the paved road just to reminisce. Then, I take a turn into the location. The first sign that I’m on time is the tractor warehouse guard unlocking the gate. The next sign is a middle-aged woman that I don’t know. Every morning she’ll say something like, “you are later today” or “Oh, you have woken early”. Thanks for the recognition, lady. Next is the boy who calls me teacher though he goes to a different school. “Good morning teacher.” Then, the check out girl from Multisave (our only grocery store in town) walks the other direction to work about this time. She knows I like oatmeal and don’t speak Damara (once I took a 4-year-old neighbor to Multisave with me. While I was paying the checkout girl seemed confused. Finally she stopped everything to ask if I was Damara and if the child was mine. I felt that “no” was the obvious answer but I didn’t want to say it so quickly that I insulted her intelligence, so I said “noooo” – which may have been too enthusiastic of a no). Next on the walk are the second grade girls who wave and stare – sometimes from the perch of trees. Then 25 minutes from when I locked my front door (17 when I book-it), I arrive in the safety of the school.

I got a ride to school this week in a hearse. A story for a different day, I think. But the next morning all of these people commented on my absence from the street the day before. Nice but, if it happened in America, creepy, no? Walking home is worse because, by then the town as resorted to its party-like atmosphere. Music blaring from houses. Women sitting under trees selling fat cakes. Kids on the stoop of the general store. Generally, I only get asked for a dollar once or twice. The “chief” tells me I changed the weather again. I say “Hello. I am fine. Thanks. And you?” about ten times. On special days, the street pastor will give me an impromptu lesson on spreading the good news and ask for my “viewings on the character of Jesus.” Also on these special days, the man who lives across from the hospital will yell, “Stop, stop walking! Stop! Stop walking! Stop! Talk! Stop walking!” until I am out of his sight. And, if I’m lucky, the fourth grader from the school in town will stop and ask me, with impressive neck-snapping attitude, my mother’s name, my father’s name and where I come from (her most rehearsed English phrases). Which is actually cute. Unlike the man across from the hospital.

On good days, this culture and life of Khorixas all make me smile on both walks. The fact that people are willing to talk to me and welcome me to their town makes me feel like maybe I will belong someday. On bad days, I feel like I am under a microscope (oil immersion 1000x). That’s when all the recognition makes me want to hide.

Luckily, hiding is easy because currently, I love my room. This is pretty pathetic seeing how my room is about the same size a drive thru Dutch Brothers. But it is mine and it is American. On it’s walls I have tacked every 2007 Christmas card, every going away card I brought with me, every letter written to me, my evaluation from modal school (my TRC PCV friend said some nice things. I need nice things in my life), a calendar from Grandma, a map of Namibia where I wrote all PCV sites, a world map (that convinces me the world is actually tiny and I can just hop back to you all), a Seattle space needle ornament left by the previous volunteer and glow in the dark stars (they’re so happy). So, as you can see, this is a nice hole to hide in. But sometimes I have to remind myself I am in Africa… I need to go outside and explore. I need to open the door.

Which bring me to the national anthem. Exploring Namibia makes you think of the national anthem and it would be a shame if I told you about explorations without sharing the background knowledge that goes with them. The anthem goes:

Namibia, Land of the brave
Freedom fight, we have won
Glory to their bravery
Whose blood waters our freedom
We give our love and loyalty
Together in unity
Contrasting, beautiful Namibia
Namibia our country
Beloved land
Of savannahs
Hold high the banner of liberty
Namibia, our country
Namibia, motherland, we love thee.

I’ve learned a couple of things from that anthem. First, the correct way to pronounce “our” is with a breath between its two syllables… that’s right two. Just like the word “films”. Second, apparently many nations are brave. And oddly it seems true for all of them. Striking out on your own and making a new country requires a bit of bravery, I would think. Third, the savannahs are the most loved. And, fourth, the line that will always get stuck in my head is the part about “contrasting, beautiful Namibia”.

There’s nothing particularly musically interesting about that line. I think it just gets stuck in my head because it’s so true. My favorite example of contrast was on my walk this evening (the one where I forced myself to leave my Dutch brother’s room). Over the past few days, Khorixas has gotten more green than I thought possible. Nearly everywhere there was sand when I first arrived is covered in grass and little yellow flowers. The trees have doubled in size and grown leaves. As I was walking and enjoying the greenery, I couldn’t help but notice the sky. To the north was a rainbow in some white clouds and blue sky. To the west the sun was setting. Setting suns here always mean yellow, orange, pink, purple and perfect. To the south, over the donkerhoek was a downpour. It looked evil. To the East were dark purple clouds and lightening.

The whole thing made me think that maybe even the sky gets bored in Africa. And, land of contrast, it was beautiful and terrifying all at the same time. The rain was flooding the Donkerhoek. A little boy drowned in the rains there this weekend. It’s been an upset around town. He was very little and got carried away by a new-formed river (my learners were plastered to the windows facing the camp today during class because they wanted to see all the crowds and cameras who had come talk about the boy). And, in the same moments as the flood, a rainbow decorated the opposite sky. Thunder, lightening, sunset, flood and rainbow all at once seems like a crowd but, in Khorixas there was room in the sky for all of it.

Sometimes I think people make things up for national anthems. Ok, maybe not everyone is America is brave… or, maybe they weren’t really admiring the flag while enduring canon fire… (I know I wouldn’t have been). But, this is the long way of saying: For Namibia, it’s true. Beautiful and contrasting. They’re both true.


12-02-08
I had an odd sensation today. It was fleeting but all around odd anyway. It was a feeling that I was supposed to be here. I felt like, for a brief moment, that there wasn’t anywhere else in the world I was supposed to be.

At school we have eight periods in a day and one half hour tea break. A period is forty minutes long. At the end of each forty minutes one 7th grade boy is responsible for leaving all of his eight classes to ring the bell. I believe he was chosen for this task because of his upstanding nature… and, he owns a watch. Then, when the bell sounds, kids file out of class and move as a group (5A, 5B, 5C, 6A, 6B, 7A, or 7B) to their next classroom. The fun part of moving to another classroom is that transition time is not written into the schedule. First period ends at 8:00. Second period begins at 8:00. If 6A has to move from classroom 18 (the lowest numbered classroom – I don’t get it either) to classroom 42, they have to do it “quickly, quietly and efficiently” – nearly impossible for 40 6th graders. And, when they arrive at classroom 42 at 8:05, who is to blame? The class? The previous teacher? I don’t mind when my entire class arrives late. However, at times (at least once a day), a learner will arrive about 10 minutes after the rest of their class. I have yet to make this an offence that requires disciplinary action but, instead, stop them and ask “why are you late?” Here are some of the responses:

- “I was making food for Mr. [so and so].”
- “I was in the toilet.”
- “Mr. [so and so] was asking a stick.”
- “Miss [so and so] was asking tea.”
- “I was drinking the water.”
- “Mr. [so and so] sent me to the store for NikNaks (Namibian Cheetos)”.
- “I was lost.”
- “I have dropped my pen in the sand. Borrow me another.”

First, being in the toilet sounds messy… and wet. Second, English vocabulary is sometimes inserted into Afrikaans or KK grammar – it makes for interesting sentence structure. And, third, what the crap (am I allowed to say crap online)? I thought we were in school? I understand a learner being late for child-ish reasons like digging for their pen in the sand or getting lost at a school they’ve been attending since they were six years old. But being late to buy Cheetos? Being late to run to a teacher’s house and make a sandwich? I don’t know if I’ll ever get that.

Even outside of school, the whole concept is still foreign to me. Children run the errands and do the chores. They make and deliver tea and lunch. They clean the kitchen and do the dishes. They carry bags and water to the house. Is it just my imagination, or in America, is it the opposite? If I recall, in elementary school my mother made me lunch. I didn’t have to run home and make my entire family’s, my teacher’s and my lunch before running back to school.

They have a phrase here, though Americans use it more than Namibians (and I have to admit I’ve never heard it said by an American that wasn’t mocking). They say, “send a small boy.” Need a chair? Send a small boy. Need lunch? Send a small boy. Chalk? Small boy. Need another teacher? A small boy can tell them to come. We even learned “Axabrob” in KK class. It means “small boy”. This is what we call a cultural difference. I’m sure one of you can tell me the irreparable mental and physical damage we are doing to these small boys when they go to fetch this or that. I’m sure it’s against some child labor law. But, I have yet to decide which is a better system of raising a child. Granted, I love the way I was raised and, if I do say so myself, I turned out ok. But, that’s not the case for all American children. We’re spoiled. I was spoiled. Is that better or worse? I’m not sure. I am sure, though, science class is more important than NikNaks.

Oh, and “small boy” really just means child. Which really means learner. Which in our case could mean a 6 year old or 16 year old.

Tuesdays and Thursdays I teach for six of the eight periods. I have two double period math classes in the morning and two single period science classes in the afternoon. In order for me to teach these classes, I have to commandeer classrooms from other teachers who are off that period. I usually feel like an invasion force when I arrive at class. None of the teachers really know the schedule yet (myself included). So on their off periods they tend to be sitting quietly working at their desks a look up to see me standing their with an armload of teaching materials (that I could have let a small boy carry) and holding the schedule that says I get to take over their classroom. I’d like to think that my word is enough but it doesn’t hurt that I have the whole class I’m teaching behind me yelling things like “Miss [person in charge] said we are here!” Meanwhile, the ones who aren’t yelling are hitting each other over the head with something. Or eating something. Or stealing something. Or breaking something. (Kids… I do love them. I do.) I imagine most of these teachers are kind enough to give up their classrooms just to stop the chaos. And, I’m sure it has nothing to do with me looking like a homeless, beggar teacher.

If I were a real teacher, my double period math class would simply sit in the same classroom for two periods on Tuesday and Thursday. But, alas, I am a fake teacher. This means that on Tuesday and Thursday, I dedicate the last two minutes of the first period to prep my learners to switch classes. I tell them: “we are having the rest of class. You must go to room 42. Go in. Sit down. Get your exercise books out and keep working on your assignments.” So, after erasing any proof that I existed in the first classroom, I go to room 42 to find my learners standing outside hitting each other with something. Or eating something. Or stealing something. Or breaking something. I sigh. Then, I finagle my way into borrowing the classroom. Then, I call my learners in. They come in and stand there staring at me. This is common. It means we must greet each other. But, after I convince them that we did just spend forty minutes together, they finally sit down without a second greeting for the morning and, after a minimum of ten minutes and five reminders, get their books back out and open them. Kids… I do love them. I do.

Today, I was in the middle of finagling my class into their second classroom when one of my learners ran up to me with a worried look. She said, “kakerlaka.” I have learned the meaning of this word many times since I’ve been in Namibia – none of these lessons were pleasant. “Kakerlaka” means cockroach. She and her worried expression then bent down and flicked a cockroach away from my foot. Then she ran back to join the rest of her class. She saved me! She saved me from the kakerlaka! Granted, it was a cockroach and I’m pretty sure I could’ve handled myself if it had decided to take a path over my foot. But one of my learners was looking out for me. It made me feel accepted and I pondered for a brief moment adding cockroaches to international signs of peace but ultimately decided against it.

2-17-08
When I got home from work this Friday, I spent the afternoon cleaning to prepare for a couple of volunteers that were coming to town to spend the weekend. In mid-plunge, I wondered if ever before I had needed to plunge the toilet, bathtub, shower and kitchen sink to prepare for people staying the night – we have plumbing problems.

Yesterday was the Katmanjab-Khorixas cluster athletic competitions. Khorixas is the bigger town so the events were held at our stadium. There are two other education PCVs near Katmanjab who traveled with their learners this weekend. In theory, the games began at 7am on Saturday. We, who are learning precious integration skills, decided this merited us showing up at 8:45 – within two hours is appropriate. It was a good day overall. Though, I didn’t do anything I can claim will attribute to the betterment of the Namibia, the Peace Corps, Khorixas, my school, my learners or even these particular athletic games. However, I did get a lot of, what we like to call, “face time” – imperative in reminding your community that you still exist and, someday, when you’re not so clueless and they are actually in need of help (instead of the reverse), you will be there for them.

Spending the weekend with two other volunteers was nice because it gave me a little perspective on the whole PCV experience. I realized that, generally, we are all confused, all the time. It seems that, because you live in a certain town or remembered someone’s name, you may be a better PCV than another but, in actuality, it just means you are a better faker. More than once during the games, one of us would be talking to a local teacher or coordinator with the others standing silently by. At the end of an outwardly logical conversation, the two silent ones would ask, “What was that about?” Inevitably this was followed by, “I have absolutely no idea.”

I have this theory that if you just keep smiling and showing up maybe it’ll all work out. If nothing else, at least the American people seem pleasant because we smile all the time. Someone will say something like, “when the volunteers travel to Outjo they will train the team and ride with the learners.” This is followed by us smiling and saying, “okay…” while thinking “Me-volunteer or another volunteer? What team? What do I train them? Why are the learners going to Outjo? When? Are we going in the back of a cattle truck or a vehicle with seatbelts? What are we doing when we get to Outjo? Why did I need to know that?” And, in the time you are deciding which of these questions is the most pertinent to ask out loud (because there will only be time for one to be answered before another seemingly unrelated tangent will take place that only causes ten more questions), you smile.


2-18-08
I got a fever yesterday. It came on really fast in the afternoon. Just walking from the kitchen to my room felt like I had just run a lap around the track. Luckily, one of the times I collapsed from exhaustion after a walk through the house, it was next to my Peace Corps medical handbook. I decided this was probably the good time to make sure I didn’t have an exotic fever-causing virus only available in southwestern Africa.

It didn’t appear that I have anything more than a cold. But, still catching my breath (and still living in Namibia), I found some interesting things to read about in my handbook. My favorite section is the one completely dedicated to Culture Shock. Symptoms of culture shock were listed as: Homesickness, boredom, Family tension, Withdraw from friends, excessive amounts of sleep, compulsive eating or not eating, Irritability, stereotyping host country locals, loss of ability to work, inexplicable fits of weeping, exaggerated cleanliness, and alcohol abuse.

Jessica’s reading thoughts: “Fits of weeping? Check. Sleep? I sleep, yeah. Homesick? Check. Boredom? I’m still reading the PC medical handbook. Eat? Yeah… and I bake… is baking bad… Cleanliness? I take showers. Hmm.”

Keep reading: The stages of these symptoms follow the following pattern: 1) Initial euphoria 2) Irritability and hostility 3) Gradual adjustment 4) Adaptation and bi-culturalism

Jessica reading thoughts: “Cool. I get to be bi-cultural! Is that as cool as being bi-lingual? Wait, did I miss the euphoria? Was that somewhere between the jet-lag and break downs on the phone when I first called home?”

Suddenly, my low-grade fever was far from my thoughts and I was concerned with my mental state of being – as I often am in Namibia. Then, I got an SMS from a friend and got distracted – as I often do in Namibia. And forgot about the whole thing until later. At which point I decided: I may or may not have these symptoms. And I may or may not die of culture shock. But, either way, the fact remains that US government educational material continues to entertain me :)

Disclaimer: the above entry is a result of what I like to call a fever-medicine shadow. This means my brain was raised (granted, a few slight) degrees above normal and American medicine is strong and, well, both tend to make me ramble. Thanks for listening.


2-19-08
After spending some time in examination of the work done by the laborious dung beetle, I have a new appreciation for my lot in life and, if you spend your days involved in tasks other than rolling large pieces of…, you should too.


2-22-03
I think I’ve reached the point in the game where travel meets job. The novelty is officially starting to wear off.

I’ve reached a point where the beautiful African-child faces I teach everyday are the same learners I taught yesterday and will teach tomorrow. They need to do their homework and they need to tuck in their uniform shirt. Yes, you can go to the toilet. No, you may not throw a pen across the room.

I’ve reached a point where the crazy man on the corner who sells decorative nuts has about three with my name on them. Literally. And he’s impoverished… but I’m still not buying one. And I stopped feeling bad about saying no.

I’ve reached a point where stopping to talk to the woman who sits under the tree selling fat cakes is just stopping to talk to someone I know. Even though she gives me iffy medical advice like: “hold garlic on your tongue until it burns and then it will burn out the fever.” Hmm, I think I’ll stick to the fat cakes.

I’ve reached a point where I accept a ride from anyone with Khorixas plates. Don’t worry mom.

I’ve reached a point where Bird-sized moths are not fascinating. They are gross… ok and still pretty cool when they die and cover the road.

I’ve reached a point where I’ve quit caring that I don’t match. And I don’t notice that deodorant never comes out of my shirts. And I think I wore the same outfit on Wednesday and Friday this week… but I can’t be sure because I wear it so often.

I’ve reached a breaking point where I started wearing sunscreen. Hey, skin cancer never looked good on anyone.

I’ve reached a point where I nearly consistently remember that people at home are still at home and, thanks to technology, still very accessible. But I still get homesick. I think there’s no controlling that.

I’ve reached a point where I count down to seemingly mundane events. Wednesday: groceries! Woo! Saturday: Cinnamon rolls and Internet! Sweet! March 1st: new clothes that I haven’t worn in Namibia yet. I hid them from myself. I am going to be so clean! …Everybody needs a strategy for counting down the full two years.

I’ve reached a point where I can watch nearly a whole season of Grey’s Anatomy in 48 hours, while still going to work and sleeping. Ok, ok, I bet I could have done that before too.

I’ve reached a point where, when I see kids playing soccer in the street with a lightening storm in the background, I think of my childhood and not “oh, my goodness, I’m in Africa!” even when they yell “Donkey cart” instead of “car” to clear the game out of the street. (Actually, I have no idea what they yell because they aren’t speaking English, but something effectively gets them all out of traffic when it matters)

I think I’ve almost reached the point where this becomes normal.

Actually, I’m probably speaking too soon. But, there are enough normal moments in everyday to make me think that maybe, just maybe, the world is small. And maybe, we are all alike.

Don’t feel bad for me and my normality. Be proud. I may actually fit in soon. I may actually make a friend! …Lets not get carried though. I still only walk on two streets in the location and have been too scared to branch out. I’ll make it with time, though.

Wish me luck. I’m integrating.

Saturday, February 9, 2008

"You can be mean. You're in the Peace Corps. It's like a free card"

That is a quote from an anonymous PCV. I'd like to think its true. Only because its hard to be nice all the time... In any country.

Oh, and PS (pre-script): Jill is no longer in the Valentine's Day play. Bummer. I'm going to need something to do on Valentine's Day now... And I hope that will be reading all of the loving emails you all send me :)


January 30, 2008

Before I left the States, I read a few blogs from current volunteers in Namibia. They were helpful, but I don’t think I fully understood them until now. Only natural, I suppose. One thing I remember reading was about a PCV who started walking with an umbrella to and from school. She felt a little silly but didn’t want to get burned. Now that I’m here, I see many women carrying umbrellas and only one has been American. I think they want their skin to be lighter… but that could be a myth. I also remember reading about learners mocking American accents. I thought, “That could be cute”. No! It’s maddening! When will the novelty wear off? I don’t remember reading much about the language. This is odd because – It is Huge! I do remember reading about the unnatural pace a PCV goes through books. Jill proves this one true at a rate of about a day to day and a half per book. And, most recently, I’ve remember reading about the January and February sporting chaos. When I first read it sounded like just another hoop the PCVs had to jump through. But today, I experienced the magic of it all.

My primary school took the Kudus and the Orics to a stadium on the way out of town. Yet another corner of Khorixas I “footed” it to (their word, not mine). The kids were asked to come after lunch break to begin at 2:00 and they were asked not to wear dresses. The learners showed up between 1:45 and 3:00… some of them in skirts, some in boxers and some in tank tops I would have made them go and change out of if they lived in my house (meaning: it didn’t have enough fabric for a 14 year old). But, there were no dresses.

First, the kids met in the stadium. This stadium has a soccer field – with real grass!!! It also has a dirt track, covered stadium, bathrooms with running water and a few shade trees. When I got there early (what was I thinking) I sat and pondered the grass and shade trees and felt a little like I was back home. Then the learners started showing up. These kids, who live in houses made from 30 different pieces of corrugated metal and cook outside on a fire in the one pot their family owns, were now spending the afternoon running around a western-style stadium. It was cute and I wished I had cotton candy and peanuts to give all of them. While waiting they played and rolled in the grass. There were butterflies too… how could you not see magic in that? I mean seriously.

When most of the teachers and learners had arrived, the teams were split. Then, they started with team cheers. I’m pretty convinced they made up most of them on the spot. But the great thing about having fifty kids with rhythm is that they can get behind any clapping/singing game pretty quickly. The bad thing about having fifty kids with rhythm is that they have a lot of enthusiasm about it and forget to stop sometimes. “Oh, numbah, Numbah one. Kudus ah Numbah one” was chanted for approximately half an hour on repeat. Cute, but in a if-you-were-someone-else’s-kid way (and, at Eddie Bowe, “we’re teachers and parents” and that “makes us tougher” – I’ve been told). Annoying or otherwise, I was really happy to see them take ownership over their teams. I have this theory about building character by owning something you put work into.


When the track meet began it had a lot of whatever-meter runs… I can’t remember because I don’t belong at track meets. The kids who weren’t running cheered on their teammates from the stands. At one point in time, a child collapsed on the track right before the finish line. One teacher cleared the other kids away and tried to wake up the fallen learner. He was unsuccessful and called over another teacher to help carry the learner off the track. The second teacher picked up the collapsed learner and started to carry him away. The whole stadium had stopped to watch… about that time the kid cracked a smile and jumped out of the teacher’s arms and ran away. It reminded me a little of the Sandlot. I laughed, but then took a quick second to reflect on how much trouble that learner has given me in Science and stopped. It’s the creative ones that get you.

In the whole afternoon, I literally did nothing. I sat with the Grade Ones and enjoyed the scene. Sometimes, I show up and have to run the show and sometimes and show up and sit with the Grade Ones… it’s all about being prepared for anything… or not caring that you’re not prepared and going with the flow. I was ok with it though because the Grade Ones are excellent companions despite the fact that they only speak 9 words of English: How, are, you, am, fine, I, love, you and bye-bye. Technically, “Haullo” is KK too.


1-31-07
Did you know Khorixas and Chia Pets are made out of the same substance? I just went for a walk on a familiar path and got lost because so much greenery has sprouted in the past week. I’m trying not to appreciate it too much because I’m sure it will all fade very quickly. But I did take pictures so I can prove that greenery does exist in semi-desert areas (thank you Ecology for that practical knowledge).

I borrowed a book today called “Dear Exile”. It is a book full of letters written between two friends. One is in New York and the other is a PCV in Kenya. I spent the whole afternoon reading the adventures of the two and laughing out loud to myself like a crazy person. The PCV describes the first days of school… and I laughed. They waited three days for their staff meeting to start. She describes the staff room at her school… and I laughed. There was a flood and roaches in it while she wrote that letter (writing letters at school? I’ve done it. And I only wish our school had enough water for a flood). And, when the PCV attempted to burn dental floss and instead burned his hand… I laughed. Some of the scenarios seem a little too close to home.

Today, I have been in Khorixas for exactly three weeks. Two years has never felt longer. But on the plus side, approximately half the city knows my name. On the downside, they only know my name because of gossip.

Real teaching has only been in my existence for this past week. And in these precious few days I have concluded one thing: I will never be a middle school teacher. My grade six “Maths” (why is everything plural here: hellos, good mornings, maths, sciences…) classes have been ok. They listen well and are willing to answer questions. We are currently working on whole numbers and expanded notation. I’m a little surprised that they don’t know that the 5 in 56 means 50. I find myself struggling to remember 6th grade and what I knew about math. Anyway, grade 7 has been a bit of a handful. Teaching those two classes everyday is just asking to be made fun of. It is literally like I am back in middle school again. It’s really hard to balance the novelty of being from America and being a new strict teacher (strict – that’s me! Actually, I just chant that to myself before I walk in the classroom. Don’t smile before Christmas, they say. I think here it’s Easter, though). They want to mock my accent and ask me questions about American money and Eminem but I am insistent that we learn science. In real life, I’d rather just talk to them about whatever interests them. That could be one of the reasons they describe the first three months of PC teaching as “a disaster. Ha, a train wreck!” in training.

Another first: Today I checked out the first two books from the library for the year. One kid wanted a book on sports and the other wanted information about animals. I helped them find some books and fill out their library cards. They are my guinnee pigs for the whole process. I’ve been told to not let learners take books home because they get wet in floods or parents in the squatter’s camp use the pages to build a fire. But I stressed the importance of keeping the books safe and I am hoping for a safe return. I am also hoping that instilling small trusts in them will make them more responsible and worthy of trust. Responsibility! Ownership! Leadership! Be an Example! Am I sounding too Western yet?

Tomorrow is a sanity trip day. The volunteers will exodus from Khorixas and travel to Outjo. There we will hide from our semi-desert troubles, make a lot of no-bake cookies and commiserate. Also on the to do list: search for and recover a new trashcan. It seems un-assaulted rubbish bins are in short supply in K town.


2-5-08
I feel like my blog is a safe place. I feel this for a lot of reasons but, mainly, I feel this because I can still write the date month-day-year. Sometimes I have mini panic attacks when I turn to write the date on the board every morning – year-day-month, wait… month-day-year, no… um, day-month-year. Yeah, that’s it. Really, it’s quite a pitiful sight.

For lunch break today I had a liter/litre of fruit juice. I think that’s weird. Is that weird?

I didn’t find a rubbish bin in Outjo. I feel kind of bad about this. But I did succeed in eating a lot of cookies and commiserating.

Jill is going to be in a play that some youth in Khorixas are putting on for Valentine’s Day. She is going to be a nurse. The play is about the first time an original tribe heard the real facts of HIV/AIDS, I think… the explanation is weirder every time I hear it. I think this is the first time in a long time I’ve looked forward to Valentine’s Day. Don’t worry about Jill’s moral though; I’ll sit in the back so she can’t hear me laughing.

Today, I took a page from an old high school teacher of mine. The first day of calculus class, he kindly passed out note cards for us to write our name, age, favo(u)rite color, food, subject and what we wanted to be when we got out of school. We spent the whole time filling out the cards having warm fuzzy feelings that this man genuinely wanted to know about our lives. Then, he collected them and dismissed us. When we came back the next day, we had a lecture where he asked us the answer to numerous trigonometry and calculus questions. But, in the beauty of his plan, we did not need to raise our hands to answer these questions. He called on us! By flipping through our note cards! Then, at the end of everyday, he’d shuffle them! This painful set-up meant I had to pay attention for all of class and be ready with an intelligent answer because I never knew when my name was next in the pile. Well, as you can imagine, this plan is more difficult when the names have clicks and you are a clicking dunce, such as myself. But, willing to make a fool of pronunciations, I enacted the Note Card Plan today. It went over really well in 6th grade. I giggled to myself a little at the collective “gasp” from 6A when I turned their note cards against them. Grade 7 will have to experience that joy tomorrow. Oh, the satisfaction of classroom management.

Behavior management has been a bit of a nightmare since I’ve started teaching. I’m not exactly sure why this is. I’ve never had a behavior problems with a group of kids that I had NO idea how to solve. After all, working with and leading groups of kids has been my job, as a volunteer or otherwise, since I was a kid myself. I feel like that amount of training should have given me enough tricks to start off this year. But these kids are a different breed. I won’t go into the details of the problem because, well honestly, they’re all too middle school-ish. But I will say, I started the note cards today and have an elaborate reward system worked up for next week. I think the trick in all of this is to just keep showing up. Their weakness is an underestimation of American persistence… or, at least, Miss Jessica’s persistence.

Well, in the mean time, between now and then, just for kicks, a few things I’ve been wondering:

- Does speaking three languages affect the mental development of a child? How? What if they don’t learn how to read and write in any of them?

- Can a human run faster than a donkey?

- Can tans become permanent? Am I going to have perma-shirt sleeves?

- Is Mefloquine severely detrimental to my health?

- How to I get scones crumbly?

- What are some recipes I can use mealie (corn) meal for? (Moto, I think it was a typo/misunderstanding in the recipe I gave you. Fat cakes call for flour – not corn/mealie meal)

- Excessive cravings for cheese is like a brain-tumor thing, right?

- What’s going on in your lives?


2-9-08
I was using the Note Card Plan yesterday in science class. It works really well. But sometimes the kids just freeze when I call on them. This is understandable for a couple of reasons. First, kids here don’t get singled out for anything except when they do something wrong. So obviously they would look like deer in the headlights when I call on them. And second, English is not their first language and, I know from experience, speaking a foreign language in front of large groups is scary… really scary.

Anyway, it’s understandable that they freeze. So, I’ve taken to walking over to their notebooks and looking at the answer they have written. Usually, it’s correct. At which point I say, “perfect”. Yesterday, I noticed the bold ones started to freeze also. This is the opposite of what should happen. I discovered the cause in the last period of the day. One of the louder boys in class gave me the deer in the headlights look when I called his name. Then, he held out his book for me to look at. I looked and said “perfect. Say that out loud.” But instead, he turned to his friend, straightened his shirt, brushed it off in an I’m-awesome manner and repeated “perfect”.

Sheesh. Someone praise these kids please.

Over the past few days, I reread my blog posts. How is it that so much perspective could be gained a three and a half months? During site visit I remember Jill and I were totally disgusted with out respective housing situations. But, I can’t lie; they’re both quite posh (minus Jill’s overwhelming need to mop). I remember thinking also that a lot of the people I met were kind of rude. I’ve re-met those people since being back at site and, to be honest, they’re really pleasant welcoming people. I also remember while writing some of the posts I was really worried that they would come off as cynical or too serious. While re-reading I found that none of them were really that bitter.

I say all of that because I was debating whether or not I should write about corporal punishment. Do they really need to know? Will they understand? I think you will.

Corporal punishment is illegal in the United States (that’s a bit of an understatement, huh? In truth, you can’t really even touch a child). Well, it’s illegal in Namibia too. But, the catch, it’s only illegal if you get caught. Beating children is still accepted among colleagues as a good form of discipline. I knew this before I got to school. And I understand that it is still a new law and it may take a few years to see the full effect. But, it’s still a shocking sight.

Don’t go overboard with imagination. The people I work with are good people. And kids aren’t beaten to a pulp. Beating means the learner has to hold their hand out while the teacher hits it repeatedly with a stick. The stick is usually about the same diameter as my pointer finger. After each hit, the little ones jump around with their hand tucked under their armpit or between their legs. Then they hold out their hand again for another hit.

I’ve only seen a few kids being beat but learners are more than willing to share their beating stories with me. “Oh, miss, I failed a test and I was beat by Mr. So-and-so…” I know from experience that kids like to tell stories. But I also know those stories are usually rooted in truth. I’m not starting an all out witch-hunt. I’m just sayin… there are stories.

I’m not trying to underplay the fact that kids are being beat here either. The problem comes from the fact that I don’t belong. I am an outsider. I can’t just come into these schools, pull out my soapbox, stand there and preach “In America… Beating children causes fear… Discipline should be balanced with reward…” This country is still trying to figure out who it is. That can be a rocky process.

Since we’re being so honest about being in the Peace Corps in Namibia, I think I’ll let you in on another [superficial] cultural difference. Oddly enough, this cultural misunderstanding puts PCVs in as much of a foul mood as the beatings… really, just the female PCVs, though. Let me explain:

Here, it is good to be fat. Being fat can mean a few things. It can mean that you are rich enough to afford food, you are all around healthy and, most importantly, you don’t have AIDS. It is a common compliment to say, “You are fat!”

Well, let me tell you, this does not go over well. It doesn’t matter if the person is actually fat or not. One volunteer I met from NAM26 is approximately the same size as Mary Kate Olson. She lives with a family and teaches in the north. Her host family was so pleased one morning when she came in for breakfast wearing a large shirt. “Oh, you are fat today!” They were so excited for her. She was less than pleased though.

Our trainers tried to warn us. They explained that sometimes it could mean that you look happy, healthy and well adjusted. This, as you can imagine, doesn’t help. Yesterday, I put on a sweatshirt between our morning staff meeting and tea break. One of my favorite colleagues came up to me as I was waiting for the tea water to boil, patted my hip and said, “Oh, yes. You are getting fatter.” Gosh, this freaked me out. I went home and tried on some pants I haven’t worn since the Sates to make sure they still fit. They do. Don’t worry. I prefer to think she was referring to the sweatshirt and the fact that I was actually smiling during tea break and not dreading the awkwardness.

Which brings me to the sweatshirt. It’s cold here! Just yesterday and today. The rain came on Thursday night. This time it’s not the patchy downpours that alternate with intense sunshine to ensure misery. It was almost similar to Oregon spitting rain. We have been sitting a cloud for the past two days and it is glorious. Bleak. Gray. Wet. Cold(ish). I love it. I’m not crazy, just homesick.

And since we’re flowing so nicely between topics, you all need to know: I am a wimp. I am a wimp because I am homesick. I hear from reliable sources that it is common to be homesick when you move to Africa… or, generally, the other side of the planet. But, I have a period of everyday dedicate to being homesick. I don’t choose these periods of the day or how long they last. They usually choose me. Sometimes, my tears well up at very inconvenient times – like staff meeting or while explaining STIs (STDs) to 7th graders. It’s actually a little pathetic.

I have faith, though, that this is what we like to call an “adjustment period”. And, hopefully, it will pass. I am finding each day to be better than the day before it. Each week, I am becoming more comfortable. It would all be so much easier though if I could just get a cup of coffee at Chapters, curl up on a friend’s couch, watch TV and drive to my parents’ house on the weekends…

All those things will be there when I get back, though? Right? Friends, reserve those couches for me now. Got it? Mom, Dad. Car? House? Elmer’s? Ok?

Well, this is “Goodbye”. Wait. I already did that in October. So that means this is a “See you later”. But I won’t see you for a while. So this is really a “More later”. Which I am sure to be true. Because, here, there is always more to tell. Always.

More Later. Love, J